Yoshi: the final reckoning

Here is the final wrap-up post for the Yoshi quilt. In it, I’ll link all of the tutorials I used, the pattern I used (including the one I made to keep track of my progress), the fabric used (and how much of it to the best of my ability to remember), the thread I used, and the batting I used. Remember, you can use the Yoshi tag on my blog to see all of the posts about the Yoshi quilt. This turned out to be a mini-tutorial.

Here are some pictures:

The quilt top (pre-trimming):20151212_174404

The backing/binding:

20151227_203023

I’m putting this tutorial/information under a Read More to save everyone’s dashes.

 

The pattern

This is the quilt pattern I ended up using. If you want the actual pattern, it’s in this post. I made the background all one solid blue–I didn’t want to make it too busy. Here is the Excel file I used to mark out my blocks. The red outlines are the big blocks (usually 5 squares by 5 squares), except for the top row, where each block is 4 squares high by 5 squares wide [except for the last column], and the last column, where each block is 5 squares high by 4 squares wide [except for the top block in the last column, which is 4 squares by 4 square].

The fabric

Note that yardages are approximate!

  • 1 fat quarter of orange
  • 1 fat quarter of light orange
  • Country classic: kelly green (2.75 yds), lime (1.5 yds), black (3.5 yds), white (2.25 yds), monaco blue (4.25 yds)
  • Backing: Nintendo Game Scenes Cotton fabric, JoAnn’s Item # 14492573 (I got two 3.5 yd cuts and sewed them together, with plenty left over)
  • Binding: Country Classics in Forest Green (1.75 yds)

The thread

All are Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP unless noted.

Natural (#8010), Icy blue (#4310), Emerald (#6530), Black (#900) [I used the Natural when I needed to quilt over the orange and light orange and just stitched in the ditch]

Coats & Clark Coats transparent .005

The batting

Warm and Natural cotton needled batting. I would get the King size, or at least get enough batting to make a 80″ x 90″ quilt.

 

Assembling the quilt top

Cut 3.5″ squares of everything but your binding fabric and your backing fabric. The final size of each square after sewing the blocks together should be 3″, so you’ll have 15″ x 15″ blocks (or 12″ x 15″ for the smaller blocks, and 1 12″ x 12″ block). The quilt will be approx. 80″ wide and 90″ high.

Here’s the number of squares you’ll cut for each color:

  • 18 light orange
  • 26 dark orange
  • 68 light green
  • 102 white
  • 131 dark green
  • 192 black
  • 451 light blue

Using the Excel file as your guide, assemble each 5×5 (or 4×5 or 4×4) block. Remember that the blocks are outlined in red on the Excel file. Use a 1/4″ seam for all seams.

Once blocks are sewn together, quilt them to your batting. I recommend quilting as you go, as it will make it easier to assemble the quilt top. Here’s an excellent tutorial on quilting as you go. Essentially, once you have a block sewn together, lay it on your batting, cut out the batting around the block (leave just a little bit of batting on the edge), quilt as you like, then trim and square your block.

(Hint: the tutorial in the paragraph above describes this process much better than I do!) Once you have all of your blocks sewn, lay out your rows and sew each block in the row together, using a 1/4″ seam. Press the seams open and clip the ends of the seams where they will connect to the row above to reduce bulk. Once you have all of the rows sewn into separate strips, sew the rows together using a 1/4″ seam, and clip the edges where the seams intersect. Press seams open. Ta da! You have a quilt top. Marvel at it and have some chocolate–you deserve it!

Assembling the backing

If you aren’t using a sheet for your backing, you’ll have to sew some fabric together to make a backing big enough for this quilt. Measure the size of your quilt top and sew together enough fabric to make your backing (and I’d recommend making your backing at least 1″ wider and longer to be safe). Be sure to cut off selvedges before sewing your fabric together, and use a 1/4″ seam.

Sew down your quilt top to your backing fabric. With the quilt top facing you/up, use invisible thread in your needle and a thread color to match your backing fabric in your bobbin. Stitch down the seams of your quilt where you sewed your blocks together. You should sew down 5 vertical seams and 6 horizontal seams. Stitch in the ditch as much as possible. You can sew the backing on more, if you’d like, but the quilt is quite big and these 11 total seams should be plenty.

Assembling the binding

Square up your quilt and trim off any excess backing fabric.

Measure your quilt. Add up all four sides and add about 15-20″ to your total. Divide that number by 42 and you’ll know how many strips to make for your binding. I made my binding 2.5″ wide.

Here’s an excellent tutorial for creating your binding and sewing it down. I highly recommend sewing the binding on the back of your quilt first, then pressing it up and away from the backing and folding it over onto the front and sewing from there. Again, use invisible thread in your needle and thread color to match your backing fabric in your bobbin.

Cuddle up when you’re done!

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